Monday, March 30, 2009
I was on one of those ... what are they called, you know the places where sly country folk rip off gullible urban sophisticates? Ah yes. I was in one of those farmers' markets yesterday and the first thing I saw was some people making a TV show about farmers' markets. You get that a lot in London. Now that we have no economy to speak of, people have taken to making documentaries, often about FMs. Personally, I'm all for FMs - really - but I am always disappointed. Gill was splenetically and amusingly disappointed in one organic joint recently and, having been to the same place, I can tell you he's right. Yesterday, at the FM, I bought one russet apple and one cox and they were both worse than the ones in Sainsbury's. To be honest, I'm almost always let down by organic food. The worst meat I've ever eaten was all fantastically expensive and came from organic butchers. I remember having to listen to a five-minute lecture on the gold-plated pedigree of some steak only later to find it inedible. I suppose this is because 'organic' like 'green' has become just another marketing label used to raise prices and, as a result, the underlying idea has been lost. This is a pity because supermarkets are, indeed, a bad thing and we'd all like to have real markets like the French. The difference is, of course, that the French know about food and we just make TV shows about it.
Posted by Bryan Appleyard at 6:44 am